Expert Advice
Theresa Mattingly, MD
Theresa is a board-certified dermatologist practicing at Advanced Dermatology of Southeast Missouri. Constantly searching for effective, but more affordable alternatives to her pricier industry favorites for both her and her patient’s skin concerns, she was thrilled to learn of her Aunt’s similar passion, and excited to join as a consultant for Generations Skincare. She is a firm believer that quality, scientifically-backed ingredients shouldn’t have to cost a fortune- and loves helping people look and feel their best every day.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the benefits of using serums?
There are many benefits to incorporating serums into your skin care regimen, no matter what your skin care goals. Serums are designed to deliver a high concentration of active ingredients to the targeted area of the skin, where they are then able to take their biologic effect. In general, they tend to penetrate and be more easily absorbed by the top layer of skin (stratum corneum) than their counterparts, and are not diluted by additives or inactive ingredients. Their light-weight consistency allows for quick absorption, making them easily layered and combined with other skincare products.
Should I be concerned about redness/irritation from the use of Glimmer and/or Glisten?
It is not uncommon to experience redness/irritation as your skin is acclimating to a new regimen; particularly those with sensitive skin, photo-sensitivity, or who may be using Glimmer and Glisten in combination with either other exfoliating scrubs/devices, or other prescription or non-prescription products also containing ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C (like L-Ascorbic Acid) , or hydroxy-acids (such as Lactic Acid). While some individuals may be able to tolerate daily use from day one, we recommend initially starting out with 2-3x/week application for those with sensitive skin, and gradually increasing as tolerated. If the skin does become significantly inflamed, take a break from the product(s) and consider applying a hydrating moisturizer and/or petrolatum for several days to allow skin barrier to recover and repair before resuming use.
What percentage of Lactic Acid is considered safe to use for the majority of people?
With on-going use, the majority of people are able to comfortably tolerate percentages ranging from 5-12% for daily/every other day application. This varies from individual to individual. Higher concentrations of lactic acid (greater than 12%) should generally only be used 2-4x/month.
Are some types of Vitamin C more effective than others?
While there are various available formulations of Vitamin C found in skin care products, L-ascorbic acid is the most biologically active. However, this molecular form is also unstable, easily oxidized, and difficult to transport across the stratum corneum to the deeper layers of the skin (epidermis and dermis). By maintaining a pH of <3.5, L-ascorbic acid is able to counter these stability and absorption challenges. Stability and efficacy of Glisten is further increased by the addition of Vitamin E and ferulic acid.
Though more stable/less pH-sensitive vitamin C derivatives are available, not all are able to reach the desired location in the skin and/or chemically convert to the biologically active form necessary to be effective.
How do I know if a Vitamin C product has lost its’ effectiveness?
As discussed above, a pH of <3.5 is necessary to control the stability of L-Ascorbic acid. When this is not maintained, and/or the molecule is exposed to light, the molecule can become oxidized and lose its’ effectiveness. One sign of this you may notice is the color of the product will change from a clear or straw-color to a dark yellow or tan/brown shade. Storing in a cool, dark place and using within 3 months of opening is recommended to help ensure quality and effectiveness.
Do you need different products for morning and evening?
Our skin encounters many environmental stressors on a daily basis. Exposure to UV radiation- in particular- can both damage cellular DNA/proteins directly, and indirectly, through the generation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). These free radicals trigger a variety of downstream events (including collagen breakdown, inflammation, melanin production) that can contribute to signs of skin aging as well as the development of skin cancer. By applying an antioxidant serum in the morning, followed by SPF, we can help ‘protect and defend’ our skin from everything it faces throughout the day.
Overnight is the best time for our bodies - including our skin - to heal. This makes evening the ideal time to apply ingredients that help ‘repair and renew’ our skin. It is also an excellent time to follow your serum with a heavier, hydrating moisturizer to help boost its’ effects and minimize skin irritation/dryness.
How and how often should I exfoliate? Why is this important?
This depends on the individual, as well as the type of exfoliation. There are two main types of exfoliants- ‘physical’ and ‘chemical’. Physical exfoliants usually involve a scrub which contains small crystals or other particulars that mechanically remove dead skin cells. This method of exfoliation can be quite abrasive, and is not intended for daily use or for those with sensitive skin. Chemical exfoliants tend to be gentler on the skin, and depending on the concentration, appropriate for daily use. When using a product containing a chemical exfoliant (such as hydroxy acids), the product should be gradually incorporated into the regimen- starting with twice a week. Those with more oily skin will likely be able to tolerate daily use of these products, however those with drier/more sensitive skin should not expect to use these products more than 2-3x/week.
By accelerating cellular turnover of the top layer of our skin, routine exfoliation can provide a variety of benefits, particularly when it comes to improving surface texture and tone. In addition to giving you a glowing complexion, this process can also help fade dark spots (hyperpigmentation), reduce acne, and enhance the rest of your skin care routine by making it easier for products to absorb.
Despite all of these benefits, over exfoliation can damage our skin barrier, and cause significant irritation/inflammation. We recommend caution when using cleansing brushes, microdermabraision, or other manual exfoliation while also using lactic acid. If symptoms such as redness, burning, and irritation become more severe/persist, it is recommended to either stop or reduce frequency of application until symptoms improve.
How can I treat my discoloration/dark spots?
Dark spots, or hyperpigmentation, can develop for several reasons, including sun damage, hormones (melasma), or injury/inflammation to the skin (such as acne scars). Regardless of the cause, sun-protection is a key factor. Daily use of an antioxidant serum (such as Vitamin C) followed by facial sunscreen (at least 30 SPF) each morning is highly recommended. Consistent use of alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid, that offer a mild superficial peeling are helpful in lightening pigmentation/evening skin tone. One of the many benefits of vitamin B3 (also known as niacinamide), is preventing and reducing DNA damages to the cell- which can lead to signs of skin aging, such as fine lines and discoloration. Anti-inflammatory properties also make it a great ingredient for acne or rosacea-prone skin. Unlike many anti-aging/acne ingredients, it is great for sensitive skin and can actually help hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier.
For more severe hyperpigmentation, ideally these products can be used in combination with other prescription medications (such as bleaching agents, retinoids) and/or in-office procedures such as higher-strength chemical peels or lasers.
What type of skin products should everyone use on their face?
While everyone’s individual skin type and concerns may vary, most people will benefit from incorporating some or all of these products/ingredients into their skin care regimen:
Facial cleanser: serums are best applied to a clean slate. Your cleanser doesn’t need to be fancy! Aim for a face wash that is effective at removing dirt, oil, and make-up, but gentle enough to use twice a day without stripping the skin’s essential oils- which can disrupt its’ barrier and pH balance
Antioxidants: Applied in the morning to protect from environmental stressors and UV radiation.
Hyaluronic Acid: Unlike other “acids”, this molecule works by attracting and retaining water in the skin- giving it a more plump and hydrated appearance. Unfortunately, in some formulations the molecules of hyaluronic acid are too large to penetrate the skin and be effective where it needs to be.
Peptides: Provide the building blocks of the proteins that boost collagen and elastin production to firm, smooth, and tighten the skin.
Moisturizer: Even more oily skin types can benefit from daily use of a moisturizer. Look for ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, shea butter, or squalane. These ingredients not only hydrate but help maintain and restore our skin’s natural moisture barrier- helping to prevent water loss and minimize irritation from other anti-aging ingredients. Lighter formulations are better suited for morning application, and heavier moisturizers can be applied after other skin care products at night. More acne-prone skin should look for those labeled as “non-comedogenic”, meaning “non-pore clogging”.
Acids and/or retinoids: Applied overnight to improve skin tone and texture for a brighter complexion, smooth fine lines/wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, and improve acne.
SPF: Application of SPF 30 or greater sunscreen each morning.
Medical Disclaimer:
The information above is not meant to serve as specific medical advice and is not intended to diagnose, treat, prevent, or cure any medical condition or disease; and is not in any way intended as a substitute for medical treatment.
